Beginners's pluck

Resortwear designer DEBBIE KATZ has a lot to show for two years in business.

By Rebecca Kleinman

Fashion doesn't generate over night sensations at the rate of say, the technology or entertainment industries. And in the few cases it does, success of a designer or bran usually hinges on a groundbreaking trent or a celebrity connection.

So when Miami - based manufacturer DEBBIE KATZ Went from zero to 200 - plus specialty chain and boutique accounts in less than a year, with casual, no-frills resortwear , it came as a bit of a shock-especially for a mother with no design experience or fashion connections.


"The Business grew so fast. everybody's fighting bankruptcy and mine just grows and grows. People think I've been doing this forever", said KATZ, who founded her eponymous line in 2001 and projects sales of $500,000 in 2003 until next year's debut of washable silk division, the line focuses exclusively on cotton gauze, the ideal fabric for tropical environment, according to KATZ. she originally made her daughter's clothes out of the fabric, for its heat-and mosquito- proof and child-friendly qualities.

"Everyone asked for some pieces for their children. Then the moms wanted it for themselves, so I began designing a women's line too," KATZ said.

Her homegrown business now encompasses a Miami factory, cutting facility, design studio and freestanding boutique, all of which she owns and approximately 20 independent contractors. DEBBIE KATZ'S pale blue cotton gauze shirt and black cotton gauze pants.

The majority of silhouettes are loose, from the expected muumuu to exotic drawstring pants to funkier items like a convertible bustle skirt/strapless dress. KATZ cut dresses on the bias without zippers and buttons.

"Even if it's a simple potato sack, it has a nice cut. whatever body type you have, it sculpts to the body like jersey fabric," she said.

KATZ introduces four styles as season in addition to basic, trendier items are included too. this season's hottest silhouette, the mini, is shown in five looks , from A-Line to bias-Cut. Slouchy trousers are another spring most-have. Whole sale prices range from $13 for a plain tank top to $65 for a tie-dyed, embroidered tunic. Skirts run from $14 to $45 and pants,$12 to $29.

KATZ chooses fabrics that span 20 different hues and patterns such as patchwork and polka-dots, which sell according to regional preferences. "Florida is into water and sky shades like baby blue and turquoise. New York goes for neutrals like olive, partly because of the military influence now" she said.

Pastels and red shades from pink to brick are trendy, though black, white and olive are overall best sellers. "Embroidery is selling like crazy too, " said KATZ, listing lavender and purple and brick and khaki as winning combinations.

To provide accounts with the most accurate directions try out new ideas, she opened a tropical-themed store in south beach in February, also called DEBBIE KATZ. Though a mere 350 square feet, it houses the complete women's and children's collection, in five sizes ranging from extra small to extra large. women's sizes are available on request at retail and wholesale too.

The neighborhood's eclectic demographics were the ideal melting pot for KATZ'S Argentinean Jewish background, German upbringing and fluency in six languages, including Hungarian.